Sunday, October 20, 2013

How did I get here?


Already two months have passed since I first arrived to my temporary Slovak home, where I will live and work as an English teacher until July 2014.  Every day of these past two months I have woken up announcing to myself, "TODAY is the day I begin my blog!"  As is often the case with me, procrastination mixed with a dread of starting something for fear of failing took control and the blog was never--until this day!-- started.  After lying to myself consecutively for 52 days, I am finally in the right frame of mind to begin.  And, as is often the case with anything new, doing it the first time is the hardest part.

I have Ernest Hemingway's A Farewell to Arms to thank for this sudden burst of motivation, as it was while reading the following quote this morning that I was overwhelmingly inspired to start this project.

"It was a long time since I had written to the States and I knew I should write but I had let it go so long that it was almost impossible to write now.  There was nothing to write about."

Panic struck when I read this, realizing that if I didn't just do it-- write something, anything-- I would let this procrastination game continue all year until there was essentially no reason to begin at all.  At this point, despite having experienced two months of newness in this country, it is a struggle to know where to begin and what to write about.

I suppose I will just begin at the very beginning—a very good place to start, non?

The following was written on September 1, 2013 in collaboration with Lauren Brown, my darling friend who was kind enough to accompany me to Slovakia in August.  It describes the multi-day saga that transpired in our attempt to get here from the U.S.

Saturday, August 24th
An adventurous day of travel awaits! Our game plan is to get to San Francisco, then take the direct flight to Paris, where we will stay with Anaïs's uncle and take a cheap, direct flight the Bratislava from there. We happily make our respective ways from Denver and Seattle to our rendezvous in San Fran. Anais spends a lovely afternoon layover with Brandon in the city and everything really does seem well and good until we are completely denied seats on the flight to Paris. This is were we begin to get a taste for the icky-ness of checked luggage combined with flying stand-by internationally. The bags are left at the airport to fend for themselves overnight and Brandon swifts us away from SFO to his father's house in Livermore. Anais and Brandon attend a large 50th-birthday fiesta where she is introduced to his family for the first time. They dance and eat while Lauren sleeps like a dead thing for a while and then later steals a can of tuna, which she eats from the can.

Sunday, August 25th
Early morning start for the three of us, though it will later prove to be not quite early enough… Back to SFO to attempt a new strategy: San Fran to Newark to Paris. Our luggage is found, checked to Newark because checking all the way through to Paris is a no-no, an expensive airport breakfast is eaten, and we are promptly bumped off the flight to Newark. This little upset is quickly overturned by our triumphant seat assignments on the next flight to Jersey. We feel ecstatic, giddy, hopeful, like things are going more or less according to plan. Flying stand-by, small successes are amplified due to the frustration that clouds proper emotional reaction.

We arrive in Newark in time for the last flight to Paris and lo and behold, there are a ton of seats left a few hours before take off! But wait, now the number is shrinking. And look! There is only ONE open seat left after the plane is boarded. The ticket agent informs us that there was plenty of room on the flight to Paris earlier that day, but we had not arrived in NJ in time to catch it. If we had gotten our butts out of bed a bit earlier we would have made it. Ugh. Out of nowhere a United employee steps up to the gate and puts himself on the standby list a head of us. I glare. Some passengers are late for the flight and it looks as if they won't make it... until they come sauntering up to the gate at the very last second. Our emotions are being played with. 

In the end there is no space for two tired young ladies or that other guy ahead of us on the list, and we face (with fatigued horror) 24 hours in the kinda nasty Newark airport.  And this is where that United employee turns out to be our Jersey guardian angel. Seeing how distraught we are about our situation, he invites us to spend the night at his place. Or, more specifically, to "go the city and have a good time". He is gay. And he has braces. So this isn't at all creepy. After some weighing of our options we decide to take this beautiful boy up on his offer.

Monday, August 26th
His name is Sami, age 22, from Morocco, and he loves being a flight attendant because it has always been his dream job. We ride the employee shuttle to the parking lot twice because the first time we go he forgets to bring his car keys. He lives only a hop, skip, and a jump away from the airport, so we are back at his apartment in no time. We decide to stay in and get some good sleep in his roommate's comfy bed. We take hot showers in the morning and then take Sami out to lunch at a cute little lunch spot in downtown Newark. He graciously drives us to the airport and we say our good-byes to Angel Sami.

Back in the airport-hell, we lounge about for a good three hours until the first Paris flight. We are jaw-drop shocked when the flight fills up AGAIN and we are left at the gate to watch the plane take off without us. Fortunately, there is a very helpful ticket agent present with a sunny yellow tie who explains the situation to us and advises us to avoid the next flight to Paris because "it doesn't look good". It is clear now that we really just need to get to Europe and our Paris plan may have to be abandoned.

Here's the problem: we can decide to give it a go and see what happens on the next Paris flight which "doesn't look good", we CANNOT try the Frankfurt flight which is wide open because it is too close to departure time and the airline is not allowed to transfer baggage from one plane to another if they are destined for different countries (so says the helpful, friendly ticket agent who we trust at this moment). So it seems the best thing to do is fly to Edinburgh for two reasons: 1. we have time to go pick up our luggage and check it back through to the Edinburgh flight and 2. there are cheap-ish flights from Edinburgh to Bratislava. So we do it. We go to Baggage Claim and request our bags, which, as we have been told before, can take up to 3 hours to receive. 

The lady as the baggage center is cranky. She doesn't understand what we are saying. She asks about the "Brown bags" referring to Lauren's bags and questions whether the "Brown bags are black" which leads Lauren to describe the bags in question as being brown although they are actually black and everyone gets quite confused. Anais saves the situation with her teacher voice, sternly (and with a tinge of sass that rivals that of the woman at the counter) re-explaining the situation from the beginning, gaining some respect from the United Worker and reaffirming ourselves as apt travelers rather than two idiot twenty-something girls who don't know the difference between black and brown. We are told to wait at Carousel #9. We wait for over two hours, by which time we should be checking back in for our Edinburgh flight. 

Anais decides that it is best to go bug the baggage claim costumer service in order to avoid missing yet another flight. As it turns out, the bags were waiting for us in the baggage claim consumer service office for a good portion of that two-hour wait. And on top of the frustration of this new miscommunication, one of her bags has been lost.  And on top of THAT frustration, when asking the cranky worker if the lost bag can just be re-routed to Edinburgh, she asks, "Why didn't you just tell me that you were going there in the first place?"  That way, she could have simply re-routed all four bags two hours ago and we wouldn't have had to wait for them (not to mention that the bag surely would NOT have been lost).  We decide it is not worth explaining to her that a previous employee had told us that re-routing bags internationally is not possible and that we were required to re-claim them.  We have no patience left for trying to understand the obscure and inconsistent workings of the airport. Anais runs as best she can with two backpacks and a roller suitcase back to Carrousel #9 and retrieves Lauren. We race back upstairs to the Edinburgh check in, check our remaining bags to the flight (which we will kick ourselves for later), go through security for the fifth time in two days, and make our way to the gate.  Here's where things get really interesting.

As we trudge up to the Edinburgh gate, which naturally has to be at the very end of the terminal, we experience a small success--something we haven't tasted in quite some time-- seats on a plane!!!  The woman at the counter hands us our boarding passes for the flight and we shriek with delight.  Everything seems to be going okay now.  This was our last chance to get out of the country today and we made it!  Lauren goes to get a quick bite to eat to celebrate this victory and Anais sits down with momentarily relief at the gate.  Upon checking her text messages, she notices that her mother wished her a bon voyage just moments before we received our tickets.  She's momentarily impressed with her mother's ability to check the flight status and view the stand-by list online.  She quickly reassesses the situation and remembers her mother's sheer lack of computer skills.  Anais proceeds to call her mother, who explains that the computer system is showing both Lauren and Anais as having confirmed seats on the Paris flight, which is currently boarding just across from the Edinburgh gate.  Confusion, panic, then a suitcase-weighed sprint ensues. 

We pull up to the Paris gate as they say, "Last call for Brown, party of two" on the loudspeaker.  We announce our presence with winded affirmation, the ticketing agent hands us two seats to Paris, and we stare at each other blankly as our bodies pause and our brains process which emotion is appropriate to express at this moment.  After that moment passes we desperately explain to the ticket agent (the same one who saw us miss the flight the night before) that we (at the recommendation of his colleague with the sunny yellow tie) completely abandoned going to Paris and went for Edinburgh.  As the other passengers continue to board, he tells us that in this case he has to give our tickets to the next stand-by passengers. We are deflated.  We stand at the counter in exasperated silence that this man must feel. A moment later, he tells us to wait near the desk.  He may be able to do something.  We are elated!

Next, he asks about our luggage. We tell him that we checked it for Edinburgh.  That blows our chances, and he tells us it won't work after all.  "You should have just brought your bags carry-on", he says. We are deflated again. We don't even have the energy to defend ourselves for our seeming stupidity to explain that it isn't feasible to bring only carry-on luggage when moving to Europe for a year. He explains the situation to his yellow-tied colleague who, perhaps out of guilt for having told us this morning that we had no chance of getting on this Paris flight, gets on his walkie-talkie to speak to the luggage workers on the Edinburgh flight.  He announces (bless his heart), "I'm going to do this!" We are elated again as he confirms with the worker at the end of the walkie-talkie that they have located our bags and are putting them on the flight to Paris. 

He peeks over his colleague's shoulder with a sense of momentary success until he looks at the computer screen and gasps, "Wait--where are they?" "I took them off the list already," the other replies. "WHY?" Oh God-we have been denied. We are deflated again. And left deflated. Solemnly, we shuffle back to the Edinburgh gate with heads bowed in defeat. But the gloom passes quickly as we realize that we are not in such a bad position. Neither of us has been to Scotland before and either way, we will make it to Slovakia eventually!